Friday, July 11, 2008

Steampunk fashion

I've posted before on steampunk fiction and real-life steampunk gadgets. I'm fascinated by steampunk's transition from literary niche to real-world lifestyle. Science fiction famously inspires new technologies; steampunk inspires the redesign of existing technologies in a different style and, often, a different technological heritage. It's a do-over, like returning to the creation of the Ford Model T to try steam power or electricity instead of gasoline.

However, the technologies aren’t everything. Now steampunk is moving from garage hobby into fashion, in increasingly mainstream venues. The NY Times highlighted steampunk in May, with a fashion slideshow and links to a number of designers and shops.

The article describes steampunk's mixture of Victorian and modern as
inspired by the extravagantly inventive age of dirigibles and steam locomotives, brass diving bells and jar-shaped protosubmarines.
Steampunk fashion can be similarly extravagant, even Gothic at times. But where Goth can have ragged edges, steampunk tends toward Edwardian structure. However, steampunk's a difficult style to pin down; there's enormous variety. Until recently steampunk fashion has been largely DIY, but now high-end designers are picking up on the look--including Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga), Alexander McQueen, and Ralph Lauren.


(Note the brass Rubiks cube at left!)

Steampunk's emergence in fashion feels like a retro fad, but that isn't quite right. Steampunk is retrofuturistic, based on a fantasy of the past and the future. Perhaps that places it closer to Goth culture, or to the Society for Creative Anachronism or other attempts to create a more romantic or adventurous lifestyle in the modern era. After all, to Jake von Slatt
[Steampunk is] essentially the intersection of technology and romance.
Fashionwise, I foresee some steampunk googling in my near future. I really like the way the look evokes a mishmash of eras.

I also like the idea that the mainstreaming of steampunk indicates some heightened interest in alternate paths to and views of the future. That would be worth arguing over a drink. The NY Times article even starts down that path, describing steampunk as accommodating
a stew of influences, including the streamlined retro-futurism of Flash Gordon and Japanese animation with its goggle-wearing hackers, the postapocalyptic scavenger style of “Mad Max,” and vaudeville, burlesque and the structured gentility of the Victorian age.
Sure enough, Balenciaga and McQueen both went retrofuturistic with last year's designs. Somehow I don't see myself 'punking it up in any of those, but the NYT points to some gorgeous stuff....

At any rate I'm inspired to pick out a retrofuturistic film for tonight. We have a small pile including Brazil (Terry Gilliam, 1985), Buck Rogers (the 1930s cinema serial, which looks wonderfully ridiculous), and Metropolis (Fritz Lang, 1927). All I lack is a retrofuturistic popcorn popper. Maybe this weekend I'll read some Jules Verne.

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Monday, July 23, 2007

Steampunk visuals

I enjoyed the steampunk setting of Emma Holly's Prince of Ice. But I hadn't really visualized the Demon world's technology until I found these images. When Xishi accesses the yamaweb, surely this is what she uses:

By Jake von Slatt in The Steampunk Workshop.

What a cool keyboard, but the mouse is freaky:

By Jake von Slatt. Keyboard from Wired. Mouse from MAKE.

And I can't wait to see the Datamancer steampunk laptop:

I love that these are real. Not steampunk concept art, but functioning steampunk creations.


Steampunk gallery
on ClassicSpace
Annalee Lewitz hypothesizes that the steampunk craze is a reaction to the computer era's emphasis on functionality.
Computer aesthetics say "I am functional" -- even the iPod Shuffle....

Think of the crazy dial phones from the 1920s, with their curlicues and shiny brass and polished wood handsets. Or recall early radios, with their curving wooden exteriors meant to look like fancy furniture. And... devices from the 19th century, when everything from radiators to dynamos was covered in filigree and iron flowers and stamped, embossed shiny crap.
Part of the ugliness of modern technology is about its size--which in turn dictates a lot of conformity. The fastest way to take the character out of a room's decor and layout is to buy a wall-sized piece of furniture deep enough to hold a TV's huge backside, just to hold electronics. Now that gizmos are getting smaller, I hope we can start to design our rooms and our technology more harmoniously.


Transportation Futuristics gallery, UC Berkeley
But for me, the fun in steampunk is the "what if". What if we hadn't gone digital? How far could we have developed pneumatic tube transport? What if gunpowder had never come west out of China? Without fossil fuels, would we have different solar technologies? What if we didn't have paper--would we have some other technology, or sharper memories?
I think the popularity of steampunk also expresses our collective yearning for an era when information technology was in its infancy and could have gone anywhere. In 1880 we hadn't yet laid the cables for a telephone network, and computer programming was just an idea in Ada Lovelace's head.
I'm putting more steampunk on my to-be-read list.

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Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Emma Holly: Prince of Ice

Prince of Ice is my favorite of Emma Holly's erotic fantasy novels. Set in a steampunk universe, it has all the fairytale ingredients of youthful romance, duty, cultural mores, and hidden identity. Holly's writing is strong as always, and the strange world is integral to the story.

In Holly's world, demon (yama) culture is like a hybrid of imperial China and Planet Vulcan: ceremonious, stratified, stern... and horny. (Think Mr Spock with a nonstop sex drive and pretty clothes.) Yama society prizes emotional control above all.

Prince Corum and Xishi were raised together until age 8. Reunited at 20, they show signs of emotions that appall Cor's royal parents. The yama are conformists, and both Xishi and Corum are already marked as outsiders: she by parentage, he by a subtler taint. Xishi and Cor face legal, familial, and cultural strictures, but their childhood bond and new adult connection are incredibly strong.

Fairytales on their heads

Prince of Ice is layered with cultural references. A pay-per-view screening of Pride and Prejudice is highly controversial: to the sexually free but emotionally uptight yama, Jane Austen is freaky porn. The resolution of P&P, with love overcoming duty and class, is exactly what Cor's family fears most.

Ice is also very much a fairytale. (The deliberate fairytale elements and anachronisms remind me a little of Robin McKinley’s Beauty.) It's Cor who's labeled the "Sleeping beauty", and Holly plays with other romance traditions too. I count 3 virgins, 2 secret babies, and a One True Love theme... but not in their usual guises. Of the 3 virgins, one seduces a man in an elaborate revenge plot, one's a trained concubine, and one's a man. Xishi and Cor have a surprisingly egalitarian dynamic, absent the usual inequalities of experience. (Xishi is slightly more knowledgeable, as her training included a, ahem, hands-on lab on male physiology.)

The nonstop sex drive

We learn a startling amount about royal yama physiology and reproduction. The story centers on a clever piece of biology: yama royal males don’t mature sexually until they find their genetic match. Even at maturity, they can only ejaculate for one week a month, and only with their perfect mate. (And by “for one week", I do mean without stopping.) Holly portrays this genetic element as in part a choice--and not only a lip-service to choice; partially-matched couples are prominent in the story.

The royal sex drive makes me guffaw when Xishi and Corum first meet again. Unawakened, oblivious Corum goes from zero to Ron Jeremy in a nanosecond. Before he even sees Xishi, he feels “as if a heated poker had lodged between his legs, and his balls were pulsing and hot.” He can smell her (!) from outside the building. Xishi is more restrained: her moisture doesn’t run down her thigh until he looks at her.

And then there's the royal male anatomy. The crazy sexual adaptations remind me of another recent read: Dr. Tatiana's Sex Advice to All Creation: The Definitive Guide to the Evolutionary Biology of Sex. Corum’s penile peculiarities fit right in with the stick insect (stamina), the Argentine lake duck (my god, the size), and the golden potto (penis like a hairbrush).

As you might imagine, the sex is strange and frequent. And if you think the ass is something to be gingerly patted after sex is over, I don’t recommend this book.

There's one bout of sex where I must, simply must, point out a moment of cheese and a trope. I've hidden the spoiler:
1. The actual moment of conception.... The little balls of light? Chiming and giggling? So much cheese there, I was totally jolted out of the story. I can go along with a fairytale of a sweet young couple, but they're 20, yes? Not 5? When did this become a Disney flick?
2. Why is it so common to wrap up a story with the couple having twins? And not just twins, but boy-girl twins? I see it everywhere. In fact, Kelley Armstrong just did it with Clay & Elena in No Humans Involved. It always feels eye-rollingly tidy to me. As one friend put it, that's the writer saying "I have nothing more to say. Life is perfect. They're having their cake and eating it too. And besides, they're busy raising twins. Don't ask to hear more of their story because you wouldn't enjoy it. They don't have time for adventures."

The ending

Others (Jane and Bam) hated the deus ex machina ending. I can understand that, but in Prince of Ice I think the ending fits the fairytale. Coach turns into pumpkin, princess is immured in castle, fairy godmother to the rescue... then a sting in the tail: losing magical powers, banishment, etc. Xishi's fairy godmother (so to speak) also helps unravel the mystery of how a commoner could be Cor's perfect mate.

The other Demon books

Holly's other Demon books are set in Victorian/steampunk border towns where humans coexist uneasily with yama. (See this post on steampunk visuals for some yama-looking technologies!) Those towns are too complicated for such short books. Take a stratified Dickensian society of xenophobic Victorians; muddle it up with steampunk technological anachronisms. Then take a stratified imperial Chinese society of xenophobic, genetically-modified… Vulcans? and muddle that up with futuristic technology. Finally, take from each culture the rejects and opportunists one expects in border towns. Too, too, too many layers.

Prince of Ice takes place entirely in the yama's homeland, which gives Holly more space to develop the caste system, the genetic mutations among the royals, the sexual characteristics and mating, the protagonists' relationships with family and friends. In the other Demon books, the protagonists are outcasts from their native cultures, so we see little of their past or character except what Holly tells us. The characters are shallower as a result. In Prince of Ice, Xishi and Corum are fleshed out through family histories.

I like the idea of the Demon steampunk settings, but the books lack sufficient development to convince me the couple have really connected across all those barriers, let alone enough to cement a happily ever after. I'd actually enjoy the Demon books more if Holly ditched the rush-to-the-altar happy endings and just let the characters explore the freedom to mate across cultural boundaries. The setting and plots have huge potential for characters to grow and get outside the conventions they were raised in. That would be a satisfying story in itself, though possibly not a genre romance.

Up till now, I’ve only enjoyed Holly's contemporary erotic romances. In a whole different way, I enjoyed Prince of Ice. It's great to find something new from her.

Grade: B+, maybe even A-


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